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Bel Ray Gear Saver 80 W How Often Change UPDATED

Bel Ray Gear Saver 80 W How Often Change

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10w40 or BelRay Gear Saver or GS 80w

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  • #1
10w40 or BelRay Gear Saver or Gilded Spectro 80w

After going to get 10w-twoscore like my manual says for my tranny for my 04 kx125. I was told to go with Bel-Ray Gear Saver SAE 75w or Gilt Spectro 80w
My dealer told me thats what they sell and recommend for the 2 strokes and either are fine.
I choose the GS simply because the label said if the manufacturer recomended the 10w30 or 10w40 or SAE80 Gilt Spectro 80w would be perfect and i utilise GS as my Pre-Mix and then I figured I will keep it simple with using same brand.
The dealer said I could and would be fine using the standard 10w40 as the manual said just, still would exist amend off with the ii previous mentioned choices.

Just curious what others are using equally their tranny fluid?

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  • #2
Belray Gear Saver 80w
change information technology every 3rd ride no matter how long or short of time I rode for
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  • #three
Belray Gear Saver 80w
change it every 3rd ride no matter how long or short of time I rode for

Same here.

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  • #4
ATF type F - inverse afterward every ride.
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  • #6
This should probably go in the Euro forum but since it was brought upward here, I noticed that KTM reccomends 80W for the 300 EXC and 10W40 for the SX/MXC - why is that ? Aren't the transmissions and clutches the same ?
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  • #7
I talked to a guy at Yamaha of Troy

really a bud I have seen before at the rail and he recommended I stay with the 10w40 for a few changes then switch to the 75w or 80w whichever make I choose if I wanted and it would be fine.
He said it would be amend for break in on the tranny etc with the lighter weight fluid as recommended from the mill.So after he said switch to the 75w or GS 80w after the tranny is well broken in say twenty hrs.
He said it volition shift alot harder and be clumsily tight going to the heavier stuff esp being a brand new bike.
So I gauge I volition go along the GS until later on and pick upwards some Kawa 10w40 for the offset few changes.
Whats the Guru's opinions on Tranny fluids?????????????

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  • #viii
ATF blazon F - changed after every ride.

Ditto
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  • #9
Ok, here is what a tech at Yamamha of Troy told me.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

He recommended I stay with the 10w40 for a few changes and then switch to the 75w or 80w whichever make I choose.
He said it would be ameliorate for interruption in on the tranny etc with the lighter weight fluid on a new bicycle.
Then he said switch to the 75w or GS 80w subsequently its got nearly xx hrs on it or so and the gearing is well cleaved in.
He said information technology will shift alot harder and be awfully tight going to the heavier stuff esp. existence a brand new bike.

Whats the Guru's opinions on Tranny fluids?????????????

elf
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  • #10
To articulate things up a petty here, A mc gear oil 75w is roughly = to 10w xxx and the 85w is = to 10w40.
So yous can effigy out what the 80w is right?? Bigger bikes are amend off with thicker oil since they have more power and stress the gear box more. But if your bicycle wont shift smoothly with the thicker oil try the thinner stuff. Anyways the about important thing is to change it often.
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  • #11
So you can figure out what the 80w is right??
Cheers Elf love the Sarcasm :moon:

Well anyhow I did some researching and did find this article (I only cropped the findings on oils used in a tranny of a GasGas)

Kinda interesting

Mobil ane 15W-50 (low-cal clutch drag, clutch growl under heavy sideslip)

Spectro Gear saver 10W-thirty) (some squealing clutch engagement racket, clutch growl under heavy skid)

Spectro 80W (light clutch drag, some clutch growl under heavy sideslip)

Valvoline ATF FA (low clutch drag – clutch growl under heavy skid)

Valvoline gear oil 75W- ninety (express use – worked very well, stopped using it since the additives reportedly may non be to friendly on transmission bearings)

Silkolene 75W (noticeable clutch drag, clutch growl under heavy slip)

Castrol MTX (no bug noted with clutch drag or clutch growl under heavy slip - MY second PLACE RECOMMENDATION)

AmsOil motorcycle specific constructed 0W-twoscore oil. (no clutch skid, no clutch noise at all under heavy slip, very low elevate - in every regard better than even Castrol MTX) MY Peak RECOMMENDATION

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  • #12
I use Castrol MTX myself, it works really well. I can't say I replace information technology nearly as often as the other folks here. I cheque it actually closely when I practice, and I don't see information technology getting very contaminated at all.

That is a good bespeak for you guys to mention hither apropos viscosity. Allot of people do not realize gear oil is rated differently than motor oil. I tell people I'm running 80wt. and they think that it must be as thick as mollasses!

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  • #13
I wouldn' get the expensive route....Go to the auto store or wherever and become some mobile 10w40 (avoid energy conserving oils) and change it every other race/ do or every iii rides....Costs a little over 1 dollar....I've gone a total season on a clutch corruption loving CR125 with Extremely Difficult RIDING using conventional 10w 40 car oils. Practicing 3 or 4 days a calendar week and racing 2 classes a weekend at nigh the pro level for a full year..Clutch went out finally later on 1 1/two years while sharing do duties with another bike...

Use mobile MX2t for the two stroke oil....Information technology'south just every bit good as the stuff your bike shop sells and can be had for one-half the toll..
The Heavier the weight the oil is the less snappy the response...

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  • #14
Thank you elf, I never knew that, or if i did I forgot ! I am now enlightened equally to the viscositiy vagaries of petroleum distallates.
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  • #15
03 KX-125 - I use Bel Ray Gear Saver 80W with no problems. I dont ride for that long and that hard, I ride at a local spot where at that place are a few jumps, and about iv-5 miles of trails :yeehaw: but I would guess that I change my oil every 4-6 hours, only that probably seems neglectful to the guys here, just people around here hardly ever change their oil and ride fine.
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  • #16
Thank you for the suggestions

I changed it today and went with the stock Kawa Chem 10W40.
Groovy for $2.75 (1qt). and I had some left over :cool:

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  • #17
I used to use Silkolene light gear oil, and e'er had clutch drag merely thhought information technology was but a RM250 thing. Withal I put new fibre plates in a while dorsum and take been using Castrol MTX since, no drag, predictable appointment and hopefully the gears will last a chip better than before. I chose MTX considering it is non constructed, considering I idea rightly or wrongly that although synth might be better for the gear railroad train it would be more probable to contaminate the clutch plates and make them too slippy.
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  • #18
I use 10w30 in my Yz125, and it works groovy, makes clutch easier than w/ 10w40 but my manual also said to utilize 10w30, i used bel ray gearsaver 80w one time and it worked swell, just the 10w30 works merely every bit skillful, and u save $iv more, which buys me my lever i break every other ride haha
elf
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  • #19
Cheers Elf love the Sarcasm :moon:

AmsOil motorcycle specific synthetic 0W-forty oil. (no clutch slip, no clutch racket at all under heavy slip, very low drag - in every regard amend than even Castrol MTX) MY Top RECOMMENDATION

I apply the amsoil 0w-40 besides, good stuff!!

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  • #20
I changed it today and went with the stock Kawa Chem 10W40.
Not bad for $2.75 (1qt). and I had some left over :cool:

Sweet, you tin't go wrong with that... :cool:

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  • #21
I I chose MTX considering it is not synthetic, because I thought rightly or wrongly that although synth might exist better for the gear train it would be more than likely to contaminate the clutch plates and make them too slippy.

That would be "wrongly."

There is absolutely nothing well-nigh synthetic oil which will make a moisture clutch sideslip. Synthetic oil is oil that only happens to be fabricated in a lab from chemical reactions, rather than by distillation of raw crude.

Friction modifiers are the component of motor oils which cause clutch slippage. Friction modified oils should be labeled as such on the bottle. Don't use them and you lot'll be fine. I've run Mobil ane synthetic oil for more street and route race miles than I can count with no clutch problems, ever.

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